How to buy used golf clubs safely

Why buy used?

Big brands release new drivers and irons every year or two. Each new model is a small step on from the last, but prices for the older one drop as soon as it's replaced. For most golfers, last year's model at a much lower price is the smarter buy.

Where to buy

Golf shops' pre-owned and ex-demo clubs

Many UK golf retailers sell used clubs that they've taken in part-exchange, plus ex-demo clubs used for fittings. They check and grade them, often clean them up, and many offer a returns period or guarantee. This is the safest way to buy used.

Marketplaces and private sellers

Often cheaper, with more choice, but the quality of listings varies and your protection is weaker. Always pay through the site's own checkout so its buyer protection applies, and never pay by bank transfer to someone you don't know.

What to check before you buy

For a driver

• The crown (top) and face. Look for dents, deep scratches or cracks. Light "sky marks" (scuffs on top from teeing the ball too high) are only cosmetic, but a crack in the face means walk away.
• The shaft. The brand, model and flex printed on it should match the listing.
• The wrench and headcover. Most modern drivers are adjustable and need a special wrench. Check whether it's included.
• The loft. It's usually printed on the sole or the adjustable sleeve, for example 9°, 10.5° or 12°. Most club golfers are better off with 10.5° or more.

For an iron set

• Count the clubs. A 5-PW set is six clubs (5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and pitching wedge). A 4-PW set is seven.
• Matching shafts. Every shaft should be the same model and flex. An odd one out usually means a club has been replaced.
• Face wear. The 7 iron and pitching wedge get used most. Heavy wear in the middle of the face and worn-down grooves mean less spin.
• Custom specs. Ask if the clubs were made longer, shorter or with different angles for a previous owner. That can suit you or not.

For any club

• The grips. Shiny, smooth or cracked grips need replacing. That's easy to do but adds roughly £5 to £15 a club at a shop, so factor it into the price.
• Real photos. Listings should show the actual club from several angles, not just the manufacturer's stock pictures.
• Left or right-handed. Easy to miss in a listing, and you can't use the wrong one.

How to avoid fake clubs

Fake (counterfeit) versions of popular drivers and irons are common, and some look convincing in photos. Warning signs:

• A price far below what the same club normally sells for.
• Brand-new clubs from a seller with little or no history, often posted from overseas.
• Only stock photos, or blurry ones.
• Paint, logos or fonts that look slightly off compared with the brand's own photos.
• No serial number where the brand normally puts one (often on the hosel or sole).

Your rights if something goes wrong

• Buying from a business (including a shop's pre-owned range): under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, used goods must be as described and of satisfactory quality for their age and condition. If you buy online, you also usually have 14 days to change your mind and return them.
• Buying from a private seller: the club must be as described, but you have much less protection otherwise. Use the marketplace's buyer protection.

This is a general guide, not legal advice. Citizens Advice has more detail on your rights.

Is it a good price?

That's exactly what Lowcard is for. Each club page shows what the same model and spec typically costs, new and used separately, so you can see straight away whether a listing is a genuine deal. Start with drivers or iron sets.